Paul’s Diner has been a hometown favorite for as long as I can remember -- the type of place where families eat their weekend breakfasts and soccer teams go for after-game feasts. Being in New Jersey due to the pandemic, I decided to revisit the diner with a friend from high school for the first time in almost a decade. It was a comforting way to ease into my first indoor dining experience since the state lifted restrictions on September 4th.
In terms of coronavirus safety and hygiene, it was a great experience. We were offered the choice of eating inside or in the tents outdoors. Hand sanitizer was available everywhere. Diners wore masks until they reached the table and servers wore them constantly. The syrup-sticky, vinyl-bound menus that I was familiar with were replaced with disposable paper menus and silverware came wrapped in napkin parcels. Every other booth was closed and tables were spaced at least 6 feet apart. While my friend and I felt safe and enjoyed our experience dining indoors, our impressions of the actual food and service were unfortunately not as positive.
Ordering from the menu was an ordeal. My dining companion commented, “it’s as long as the Cheesecake Factory’s” -- an indecisive diner’s worst nightmare. The menu touts everything from old-fashioned classics like egg creams to quesadillas and a “pizza burger.” After several minutes of perusal, I ordered a crispy chicken wrap, an old favorite from childhood, and my friend ordered the char-broiled chopped steak.
Our food arrived quickly and with very generous portions to boot. My wrap came with a huge plate of fries, a pickle spear, and a tiny bowl of coleslaw. The chopped steak was accompanied by soup, mashed potatoes, and steamed broccoli. We were outnumbered three to one by the dishes on the table.
Unfortunately, the overabundance of food was countered by a dearth of flavor. The wrap was a textural mush of chewy tortilla, limp romaine, and a soggy breaded chicken cutlet. The touted “tangy house-made honey mustard dressing” was nothing more than a weakly sweet tinge in the background. The coleslaw was watery and too small of a portion to really distinguish any flavors. While I did not taste the chopped steak out of safety, my friend offered a meager "It was okay, I guess." The saving grace of the meal were the fries -- hot, crisp, salty, and plentiful for sharing.
In terms of the overall dining experience, we had mixed impressions. The diner itself was warm and comfortable with cushy booths and old-fashioned wood-paneling.
The music was the latest hits played at the perfect level -- quiet enough for good conversation, but loud enough to fill any awkward lulls.
Our waitress was pleasant, friendly, and patient as we decided on our orders. However, while she refilled my friend’s coffee constantly, it took several reminders to have my water refilled just once.
Come for a homey dining experience and a blast of nostalgia but expect high-school-cafeteria caliber food at exorbitant prices.
Space: A classic diner with warm-toned décor, comfortable booths, and the top-40s playing softly in the background. Both indoor and outdoor dining is available.
Crowd: Most diners are family or friends gathering for a quick bite. On a Sunday afternoon, the diner was at medium-capacity and relatively quiet, save for occasional outbursts of laughter.
Bill: Breakfast options range from $2 for a bagel to $15 for a steak wrap. Appetizers range from $7 to $13. Sandwiches, wraps, and burgers are $9 to $13. Entrees and pastas go from $15 to $27.
What We Liked: Local favorites are the disco fries (a take on poutine); mozzarella sticks; eggs benedict; spinach pie; and patty melt.
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